02/28/08
Text: Nik Mercer
How did Graniph start and when? What was the catalyst for its creation?
In the late-90s, three graphic designers started to print T-shirts... they didn’t find any T’s which they really liked at that time and wanted to print “cool western typography” designs. Their first T’s did so well that they decided to open their first store in Shimokitazawa [near Tokyo]. The Design T-shirts stores Graniph started in 2001 with the concept that you see today.
Japan is notorious for the expensiveness of its clothes; a T-shirt might cost something like $80 at BEAMS, a pair of jeans will be at least $200. While this isn't uncommon in the U.S. or elsewhere, there doesn't seem to be the same array of options in Japan. Why are all Graniph shirts priced at just ￥2500/$20?
You know that Tokyo was, for a long time the most expensive city on this globe... it’s often written that the Japanese like to spend money and that spending lots of money gives oneself the feeling of a high life standard, status, etc.; nothing that bad in fact, but unfortunately [the stock market crashed and that was the end of the Bubble Economy stories].
Young people started to rethink in that era. For example the ni-to (neat), a scene of young guys ans girls who just rejected to do anything for the society, and they didn't study or work for a company as their fathers did. The thought was, “[Don't worry so much about day-to-day spending if it can all collapse again!]—enjoy life!” (Some of those guys would, for example, get dark studio tans and carry their surfboards through the Tokyo streets without even the intention to go surfing at all; everything was just an accessory.)
Other young people started to travel around the world. They stopped following the high school, college, salaryman-for-life pattern, too.
Then others started to build up their own companies and design studios–like the Graniph guys did. It was not important anymore to [establish a top-notch] career in business... and many people started designing. But with different values! They understood that the market isn’t willing to pay for a single product as much as before, that the consumers had different values as well; they had to build up a sort of customer intelligence.
Graniph decided to offer a single T for 2000 Yen/20US$, because it is basically just a T-shirt and they knew that they would have so many ideas and would want to create so many new designs that [couldn't exclusively sell just one design or piece forever]. Graniph strives to give the customers the opportunity to buy up all our cool ideas, but still have the chance—and the money!—to see a new movie, buy a cool pair of sneakers or a new CD and so on... this is basically the reason why Graniph started reasonably priced and hasn’t changed the price since then. One T is now ￥2500 and two bought together, ￥4000.
How many new designs do you release monthly?
Usually we have 70—100 new designs, but over the summer we increase the number to 130, including cut & sewn products, bags, and cap designs.
How do you select your artists and print new shirts in such a timely fashion?
30% of all designs are made in-house at Graniph; 30% are from Japanese artists and designers; 30% are international artists; 10% are collaborations, awards and special event T’s. All the in-house designs are creatively directed in our design studio in the certain Graniph style, inspired by European design books of the 60’s and 70’s, old flyers, typography, pictures, and catalogs. We are seeking for illustrators, graphic designers, photographers constantly and collaborate with the people who’s style fits to the Graniph concept.
